Having resigned myself to the prospective onset of winter (with its long dark mornings and even longer, darker nights), it was uplifting to say the least to be woken this morning by bright sunshine pouring through the windows and dancing on the pond below.
Ok, wishful thinking, as you might have guessed there aren’t too many of those in Moscow. Actually there aren’t any. So the next best thing for a day like today, and a desire to hook a basket over my arm and squeeze a squash, was to be a trip to Moscow’s Dorogomilovsky market.
Dorogomilovsky Rynok (literally translated ‘market of things’) is less picturesque Provençal-esque, more vast 60’s shed round the back of a train station, but a farmers market none the less and a gem of one at that.
The lifeblood of many of Moscow’s restaurants and home kitchens, Dorogomilovsky is a bustling hub bursting with Russian bounty. Opened as a collective farmers market in the 60’s it grew so large by the 1980’s that an indoor area was built for some of the vendors. It is a must see for any foreign visitors to the city (although I would recommend taking a guide or a Russian speaker if you want to make some purchases). I was excited to visit today to take some photo’s to share with you but sadly that was not to be.
Camera over my shoulder and barely a pace through the door, I was accosted by a rather burly security guard who barked ‘nyet photo’ and then signaled to another to follow a couple of steps behind me – subtle – for the duration of my visit to ensure that I didn’t deviate.
Sad really. Not only of interest to the foodies amongst us, a visit to Dorogomilovsly opens a window into the cultural and ethnic diversity of Russia. Rich and as varied as their produce on offer, Dorogomilovsky’s population is fascinating also. A human snapshot of the vastness of this 9 (until recently 11) time-zoned land.
Alas, it was not to be today, so I leave you with some images of Autumnal Moscow on a bright October day that lifted my deflated spirits as I walked home, and the spiced plums with a pecan crumble that made me feel even better…